Updated: September 10, 2025
Written by Dan Simms
Laura Madrigal is the Home Design Specialist at Fixr.com, dedicated to identifying and analyzing significant changes within residential design. She is the author of leading trends reports on interior design, kitchen, and bathroom, and her insights have been featured in publications like Realtor and the New York Post.
Learn moreReviewed by Laura Madrigal
Ensuring your home is properly insulated can make your living space more comfortable, reduce wear and tear on your HVAC equipment, and drastically reduce your monthly utility bills. Replacing insulation also reduces your carbon footprint and makes your home more environmentally friendly, so it’s often a worthwhile expense.
The average cost to insulate a 2,000-square-foot home with fiberglass batts or rolls, which is the most common type of insulation, is $4,700, with typical prices ranging from $2,000 to $7,400. Keep in mind that this doesn’t include the cost of opening up and refinishing walls, so your total could be much higher if you don’t already have your walls open for another renovation project.
Cost to Install Insulation


Factors That Can Influence the Cost of Installing Insulation
There are many factors that can influence the total cost of insulation installation, from the size of your home and the type of insulation you’re installing to your local labor costs and whether or not you also need to include build-back to restore your walls or ceilings after the installation.
Home Insulation Cost per Square Foot
Home insulation prices fall between $0.50 and $2.60 per square foot of insulation you need. The square footage of insulation you need usually correlates to your home’s square footage, but to get the most accurate estimate possible, you’ll need to measure the area you need to cover with insulation and then multiply by the per-square-foot cost of the specific insulation you’re using.
The table below includes average pricing to re-insulate exterior walls based on home size, but your costs can vary widely if you need ceiling or attic insulation, or crawlspace or basement insulation. Your costs will also be based on the R-value of the insulation you need in your climate, as well as labor costs, which vary based on the type of insulation you’re installing.
Home Size (Sq. Ft.) | Average Cost | Cost (Installed) |
1,000 | $500 – $2,600 | $1,000 – $3,700 |
1,500 | $750 – $3,900 | $1,500 – $5,600 |
2,000 | $1,000 – $5,200 | $2,000 – $7,400 |
2,500 | $1,250 – $6,500 | $2,500 – $9,300 |
3,000 | $1,500 – $7,800 | $3,000 – $11,100 |
Cost for Home Insulation by Material
The choice of insulation material for your home affects both the material and labor costs. Fiberglass insulation is the most common and affordable option, thanks to its ease of installation. However, other materials may be more suitable depending on your project's specific needs, such as insulating an unfinished attic or achieving a higher R-value for increased energy efficiency.


Material | Cost (per Sq. Ft.) | R-Value |
Polystyrene | $0.25 – $2 | 4.5 – 5 |
Fiberglass | $0.30 – $1.50 | 2.2 – 3.8 |
Cellulose | $0.60 – $2.30 | 3.1 – 3.8 |
Polyurethane | $1 – $4.50 | 3.6 – 7 |
Mineral wool | $1.40 – $2.10 | 3.7 – 4.3 |
Home Insulation Cost by Type
It’s more common for homeowners to choose the type of insulation they need for their home rather than focusing on the specific material, although the two are closely related.
Type | Cost (per Sq. Ft.) | Material | Uses | Advantages |
Radiant barrier | $0.10 – $0.95 | Aluminum and paper | Usually reserved for ceilings in unfinished attics | Reduces damage from condensation and reflects heat |
Rigid foam board | $0.25 – $2 | Polystyrene | Can be used in exterior walls, as well as attics, crawl spaces, and basements | Better R-value than batts/rolls and more resistant to moisture |
Batts and rolls | $0.30 – $2.10 | Fiberglass and mineral wool | Most common for between wall studs, but also for between floor joists and roof rafters | Easy DIY installation; inexpensive |
Blown-in or loose-fill | $0.30 – $2.30 | Fiberglass, mineral wool, and cellulose | Ideal for floors in unfinished attics | Great for filling in space around obstructions in unfinished attics |
Spray foam | $1 – $4.50 | Polyurethane | Can be used in exterior walls, around wall or roof penetrations, or in crawl spaces and basements | Offers maximum insulation and highly customizable application |
Radiant Barrier
Radiant barrier insulation costs between $0.10 and $0.95 per square foot. Radiant barrier insulation goes over studs, rafters, or joists, and it has a reflective coating on one side to help prevent heat from penetrating it. It can also help reduce the risk of condensation from humidity soaking into your insulation and destroying the material.
Rigid Foam Board
Rigid foam board insulation is more challenging to install than batts or rolls, but it’s possible to use it between studs, joists, and rafters. You can even lay it over your attic floor to boost home energy efficiency. Rigid foam board insulation costs between $0.25 and $2 per square foot, with costs sitting higher if you want the boards installed between studs.
Batt and Roll
Batt and roll insulation is the most common and can be made of fiberglass or mineral wool. This fits neatly between wall studs, floor joists in basements, or roof rafters in attics, and it costs between $0.30 and $2.10 per square foot, depending on the material you choose.
Blown-in
Blown-in insulation is more common for unfinished attics and is usually made of cellulose or fiberglass. It relies on loft and air cavities within the insulation itself and can provide an outstanding R-value. Blown-in insulation can cost anywhere from $0.30 to $2.30 per square foot.
Spray Foam
Spray foam insulation is popular for insulating around wall and roof penetrations, like roof vents and electrical conduit. However, it’s also a popular choice for maximum R-value in new construction, where the walls are open and ready for new insulation. It’s one of the most expensive options at between $1 and $4.50. Open-cell spray foam costs much less and is easier to install, but it has a lower R-value.
Home Insulation Cost by Location
When most homeowners think about insulation, they picture the batts or rolls that go between the studs that make up exterior walls. However, most modern homes also have insulation in unfinished attics or in the ceiling below, in crawl spaces or basements, and on the underside or top side of the roof, and some homes have garage insulation, too.
Location | Most Common Insulation | Cost Range (per Sq. Ft.) |
Roof | Rigid foam | $0.25 – $2 |
Garage | Fiberglass rolls/rigid foam | $0.25 – $2.10 |
Basement or crawl space | Rigid foam/spray foam | $0.25 – $4.50 |
Ceiling | Rolls or batts | $0.30 – $2.10 |
Exterior wall | Rolls or batts | $0.30 – $2.10 |
Attic | Blown-in | $0.30 – $2.30 |
The type of insulation you choose depends on where it’s being installed. Blown-in insulation is common in attics, while rigid foam works well for roofs, basements, and crawl spaces. Costs can vary by location, type, and how easy the area is to access, but there are usually options for every space.
Roof
You can insulate your roof from the top or the bottom. If you’re insulating under a new metal roof, you can have your roofer lay down rigid foam insulation for between $0.25 and $2 per square foot. If you’re not also replacing your roof, you can insulate the underside if you have an attic. Consider rigid foam insulation or spray foam to avoid moisture problems, or install a radiant barrier to prevent heat exchange from radiant heat, especially in hot climates.
Garage
Insulating a garage costs anywhere from $0.25 to $2.10 per square foot, depending on a few factors. If your garage isn’t climate-controlled, it’s best to avoid insulation that loses effectiveness when exposed to moisture. In that case, rigid foam or spray foam are the safest options, ideally paired with a dehumidifier. For climate-controlled garages, you’ll have more flexibility; fiberglass rolls, rigid foam, spray foam, or even blown-in insulation (if the walls are finished) can all work well.
Basement or Crawl Space
Basements and crawl spaces are prone to moisture problems, so you’ll need an insulation that won’t get destroyed or lose R-value if it gets wet. Rigid foam insulation and closed-cell spray foam insulation are the most popular, and these types of basement and crawl space insulation cost between $0.25 and $4.50 per square foot. Installation costs will be lower for both options if your underhome area is unfinished, making it more accessible.
Ceiling
Fiberglass batts are the most common insulation type for ceilings, too, especially in new construction. You may need to opt for blown-in insulation or spray foam, though, if your ceilings are already closed up. Expect to pay between $0.30 and $2.10, although prices can be a bit higher due to the added inconvenience of working on ladders.
Wall
Fiberglass rolls are the most common type for exterior walls on new construction, but blown-in and open-cell spray foam are options if your walls are already finished. They allow you to add insulation without removing much drywall. Wall insulation can cost $0.30 to $2.10 per square foot for new construction or $0.30 to $4.50 if you want blown-in or spray foam insulation.
Attic
Attic insulation costs $0.30 to $2.30 per square foot. Blown-in insulation is a popular and energy-efficient choice for attics. Other options include fiberglass rolls or batts, which cost about $0.30 per square foot. You can also install a radiant barrier under the roof for $0.10–$0.95 per square foot to further reduce heat transfer.
The best roof insulation material depends on your home style and whether or not you have an attic, as well as your climate, budget, and where you have other insulation beneath your roof. Speak with a professional to find the right material, and be sure to discuss the potential for moisture problems with certain types of insulation under a roof in an unfinished attic.
Labor Cost to Install Insulation
Labor costs for insulation installation can vary based on the location and the type of insulation you’re installing, but on average, you can expect between 30% and 50% of your total to go toward labor. That means labor alone will cost between $1,400 and $2,350 for the typical insulation project. On an hourly basis, you’re looking at between $30 and $80 to hire an insulation contractor.
Labor costs can vary significantly depending on the job. It’s usually cheaper in new construction, where the walls are open, and more expensive in existing homes. Batt insulation tends to be faster and less costly to install, while spray foam takes more time and care.
The location matters too; walls are simpler than ceilings since there’s no need for ladders. If existing insulation has to be removed and hauled away, that can add extra time and cost.
Additional Costs and Considerations
The type of insulation you’re installing, the square footage you’re insulating, and the location play the biggest roles in deciding your total project cost, but there are other factors you should think about, too, if you want the most accurate estimate possible for your home improvement project.
R-Value and Insulation Thickness
One of the most important things to consider when choosing insulation is the R-value, which measures its insulating power. A higher R-value means your insulation will perform better. Although higher R-values increase material costs, they improve home comfort, reduce stress on your HVAC system, lower your carbon footprint, and provide energy savings on utility bills over time.
Each insulation type has a unique R-value per inch, and choosing a thicker material can boost your home's efficiency. This is particularly crucial for blown-in insulation, which can be insufficient if not installed correctly.
New vs. Existing Construction
Installing insulation in new construction is almost always more affordable than re-insulating an existing home. With everything open and easy to access, the job takes less time and costs less in labor. Easier access can also lower material costs, since you may be able to use more affordable options like batts or rolls instead of blown-in or spray foam, which are better suited for closed-up walls.
Site Preparation and Old Insulation Removal
If you’re insulating an existing home, your contractor will likely need to remove the old insulation first. The process depends on the material; batts and rolls can be pulled out, blown-in insulation is removed with a high-powered vacuum, and spray foam has to be cut out, which takes the most time.
Removing your old insulation first can add $1 to $3 per square foot to your costs. While this is expensive, it’s a worthwhile investment, as wet or moldy insulation can quickly ruin any new material that you install and lead to bigger issues.
Permits and Building Codes
Insulation on its own usually doesn’t require a permit, but many homeowners tackle it alongside larger remodeling projects that might. In those cases, permit fees can vary, so it’s best to check with your contractor or local building department.
What’s more likely to affect your costs is the local building code, which often specifies a minimum R-value for different parts of your home and may even mandate specific types of insulation to meet efficiency standards. This is most common in extreme climates, but be mindful of local requirements no matter where you live.
DIY vs. Professional Installation
On average, a homeowner who DIYs insulation installation will save between $560 and $950 for the standard project, but savings will vary widely depending on the area you’re re-insulating, the type of insulation you’re installing, and other factors.
Installing batts or rolls is the most DIY-friendly option, especially in new construction or during a remodel when the walls are open. As long as you make sure you brush up on how to insulate around plumbing pipes and electrical wires, just about anyone can get the job done. Just note that fiberglass is dangerous to inhale and to get in your eyes, and it’s a bad skin irritant. Wear long sleeves, pants, a respirator, goggles, gloves, and other safety equipment, or simply hire a pro to keep yourself protected.
For other types of insulation, it’s best to hire a professional. Especially when it comes to spray foam insulation and blown-in insulation, getting the thickness and placement of the material right is challenging, and mistakes can lead to efficiency losses in your home that end up costing you more than you’d save upfront in higher heating and cooling bills. For the best results, hire a pro, especially if you’re insulating an existing home and not new construction.
Ways to Save on Home Insulation Costs
Insulating your home can get expensive, but there are some things you can do to bring down your upfront and long-term costs.
Take advantage of rebates and incentives: Opting for a higher R-value may make you eligible for home efficiency rebates and incentives from your state or electric company. Check the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency (DSIRE) to see if there are incentives in your area.
Choose a more affordable type of insulation: The type of insulation you choose will affect both material and labor costs. If you’re on a tight budget, go with something like fiberglass batts or rolls to keep costs down.
Err on the side of a high R-value: While going with a more affordable type of insulation will save you money upfront, it’s worth upgrading to a product with a higher R-value to save over time. Better insulation is a cost-effective strategy that can save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars in heating and cooling costs, and it can help extend the life of your HVAC system and reduce the frequency with which you need expensive repairs.
DIY what you can: If possible, DIY removing your old insulation, or even consider installing your new insulation if you’re going with batts or rolls. This will reduce your costs by 30% to 50%.
Get multiple quotes: Get at least three estimates for your insulation project to compare and find the best value. Steer clear of quotes that seem unusually low, and make sure each estimate mentions the specific type of insulation and the R-value.
Couple the project with bigger renovations: Opening up your space to make insulation installation possible and then refinishing the area will drive up your costs, so couple the insulation replacement with renovations or remodels to save.
FAQs
The average cost to install insulation in a 2,000-square-foot house is $4,700, and most homeowners pay between $2,000 and $7,400 for the materials and labor. This cost assumes you’re using fiberglass rolls, which are the most common type of insulation in residential construction. Your cost will be on the higher end if you’re installing in an existing home and need to remove or work around walls, and it will be toward the lower end if you’re installing in new construction.
Yes, you should always remove old insulation before installing new insulation. Old insulation can harbor moisture and pests, and it might be hiding mold on the building materials behind it. Removing the old insulation will help identify any bigger problems that you need to address, and it will also give you the most space for new insulation to allow you to maximize insulation thickness and R-value.
The cheapest type of insulation, on average, is fiberglass rolls or batts. This is also the most common type of insulation, and you’ll find it most often on exterior walls and in ceilings. Rigid foam board insulation can be a little cheaper in some cases, but this is usually for very thin boards that don’t add much in the way of R-value, so it’s not as common of a material.
Fiberglass insulation can last 80 to 100 years, while other types, like blown-in insulation, may only last 20 to 30. It’s a good idea to have your insulation inspected to see if it’s still effective. Replacement may be needed if it’s nearing the end of its lifespan, has gotten wet, shows signs of pests, or if you’ve noticed higher energy bills or reduced comfort in your home.
Yes, insulating a home is always worth it, and local building codes always require that a residence be fitted with insulation. Whether or not re-insulating your home is worth it depends on your situation. If your insulation is reaching its expected lifespan, or you’re opening up an exterior wall or ceiling anyway for some other renovation project, then replacing it will boost your home’s energy efficiency and will likely end up saving you money over time on heating and cooling bills.
If you plan on installing insulation batts or rolls in a room with exposed walls and ceilings, then you can do the work yourself to save on labor costs. Just be sure to wear protective gear, as insulation is a skin, eye, and lung irritant. For any other type of insulation, or if your space doesn’t have open walls and ceilings, you should hire a pro for the best results and to make sure your home is adequately protected from outdoor temperatures.
You should replace your insulation if you find that it’s wet or sagging, if there’s evidence of mold on or around it, if you believe it’s harboring pests, or if it’s reaching the end of its useful lifespan. You may also want to replace your insulation if your heating and cooling bills are higher than normal or if you notice that your living space isn’t as comfortable as it used to be.